Nyob rau hauv daim ntawv teev cov khoom xyaw skincare, "ceramide" tsis yog ib lo lus tsis paub lawm. Los ntawm kev tiv thaiv - ua xua thiab kho cov tshuaj pleev rau cov tshuaj moisturizing, cov khoom muaj dab tsi zoo li no, dubbed lub "core ntawm daim tawv nqaij lub ntuj barrier," muaj? Vim li cas nws tau dhau los ua "tus cawm seej" rau cov neeg uas muaj cov tawv nqaij rhiab thiab qhuav? Kab lus no yuav scientifically rhuav tshem ntawm kins, kev ua haujlwm thiab kev tiv thaiv koj tus kheej. factor."
I. Ceramides yog dab tsi? "Natural Protective Bricks" hauv daim tawv nqaij
Ceramides tsis yog ib qho khoom xyaw, tab sis ib pawg lipid molecules ib txwm muaj nyob hauv stratum corneum ntawm daim tawv nqaij, suav txog 40% -50% ntawm tag nrho cov lipids hauv stratum corneum. Lawv yog cov "cov ntaub ntawv tseem ceeb" uas ua rau cov tawv nqaij barrier.
Yog tias peb piv cov tawv nqaij barrier rau "cib phab ntsa qauv," ces keratinocytes yog "cib," thiab ceramides yog "cement" uas khi cov cib ua ke - nws tsis tsuas yog nruj nreem txuas cov keratinocytes tab sis kuj tsim ib tug nruam tiv thaiv zaj duab xis ntawm daim tawv nqaij nto, tiv thaiv sab nraud stimuli thiab xauv nyob rau hauv noo noo.
Hais txog qhov chaw, ceramides feem ntau muab faib ua ob pawg:
Endogenous ceramides: Synthesized los ntawm daim tawv nqaij nws tus kheej, vam khom fatty acids, cholesterol, thiab lwm yam raw khoom secreted los ntawm cov qog sebaceous, thiab maj mam tsim thaum lub sij hawm maturation ntawm keratinocytes. Txawm li cas los xij, nrog lub hnub nyoog (qis li 1% txhua xyoo tom qab hnub nyoog 25 xyoos), UV raug, tsis muaj kev pw tsaug zog, thiab kev ntxhov siab, daim tawv nqaij tus kheej muaj peev xwm ua kom qis qis.
Exogenous ceramides: Supplemented externally los ntawm cov khoom tu tawv nqaij, kho kom zoo nkauj cov txheej txheem, thiab lwm yam. Lawv feem ntau pom muaj nyob rau hauv cov nroj tsuag extracts (xws li hom qoob mog, nplej bran), microbial fermentation, los yog tshuaj synthesis. Lawv cov qauv molecular zoo ib yam li lub cev ntawm tus kheej ceramides thiab tuaj yeem ua tiav qhov khoob ntawm daim tawv nqaij.
II. 3 Lub luag haujlwm tseem ceeb ntawm Ceramides: Ntau dua li Moisturizing, Lawv yog daim tawv nqaij "Tus Saib Xyuas Angels"
1. Dej Retention thiab Moisturizing: Tiv thaiv dej los ntawm "Sneaking"
Lub hauv paus ua rau ntawm daim tawv nqaij qhuav yog feem ntau "barrier defects"-thaum ceramides tsis txaus, qhov khoob ntawm keratinocytes ua loj, thiab dej evaporates sai heev los ntawm cov "khib nyiab" (ie, "transepidermal dej poob," TEWL tus nqi nce). Ceramides ua zoo li "sealant," sau rau hauv qhov khoob thiab txo cov dej noo evaporation, thaum tib lub sijhawm tsim cov yeeb yaj kiab moisturizing ntawm daim tawv nqaij, rov ua kom dej thiab elasticity kom qhuav, flaky ntawm daim tawv nqaij.
2. Kev Kho Vaj Tse: Tiv Thaiv Sab Nraud "Invasion"
Cov tawv nqaij noj qab nyob zoo thaiv cov kab mob sab nraud xws li plua plav, cov pa phem, thiab UV rays, thiab tiv thaiv cov kab mob uas tuaj yeem ua rau mob. Thaum lub teeb meem puas lawm (piv txwv li, vim kev ntxuav ntau dhau, nquag exfoliation, los yog siv cov khoom tu tawv nqaij khaus), ceramides poob rau hauv ntau, thiab daim tawv nqaij ua rhiab, liab, thiab khaus, txawm tsim liab thiab pob txuv. Ntxiv nrog rau cov ceramides nyob rau lub sijhawm no tuaj yeem ua kom cov stratum corneum kho, txhim kho kev ua haujlwm tsis zoo, rov ua kom cov tawv nqaij "tiv taus," thiab txo qhov tshwm sim ntawm cov tsos mob rhiab heev.
3. Anti-Kev laus thiab ruaj khov: Ua kom tawv nqaij "Kev laus"
Raws li peb muaj hnub nyoog, daim tawv nqaij muaj peev xwm los tsim cov ceramides txo qis, kev cuam tshuam kev ua haujlwm tsis muaj zog, thiab tsis muaj dej noo nrawm, ua rau cov kab zoo me me, wrinkles, thiab sagging. Ntev -Lub sij hawm supplementation nrog ceramides tsis tsuas yog tswj cov tawv nqaij hydration tab sis kuj txhim khu lub barrier lub peev xwm los tiv thaiv dawb radicals, txo cov kev puas tsuaj los ntawm sab nraud stimuli rau daim tawv nqaij collagen fibers, yog li ncua lub tsim ntawm qhuav kab thiab zoo kab, thiab ua kom daim tawv nqaij ruaj khov thiab hluas.
III. Yuav ua li cas xaiv cov khoom tu tawv nqaij uas muaj Ceramides? Saib 3 Cov Ntsiab Lus Kom Zam Tsis Taus
Tau ntsib nrog ntau yam "cov khoom lag luam ceramide" ntawm kev ua lag luam, ntau tus neeg poob rau hauv kev xav tsis zoo tias "cov khoom xyaw ntau dua, qhov zoo dua." Qhov tseeb, thaum xaiv cov khoom lag luam, koj yuav tsum tsom mus rau nws "kev ua tau zoo," khaws peb lub ntsiab lus tseem ceeb hauv siab:
1. Saib "hom" ntawm ceramides: Ua raws li koj cov tawv nqaij xav tau.
Ceramides muaj ntau yam subtypes (xws li Ceramide 1, 3, 6 II, thiab lwm yam), thiab cov subtypes sib txawv muaj cov haujlwm sib txawv:
Ceramide 3 (Ceramide NP): Qhov ze tshaj plaws rau cov ceramides synthesized los ntawm tib neeg lub cev, nws yog cov khoom tseem ceeb rau kev kho cov tawv nqaij barrier thiab xauv hauv cov dej noo, haum rau cov tawv nqaij rhiab thiab qhuav rau kev siv txhua hnub;
Ceramide 1 (Ceramide EOP): Feem ntau ua rau ntawm daim tawv nqaij, txhim kho qhov kev tiv thaiv kev tiv thaiv rau sab nraud stimuli, haum rau cov tawv nqaij uas muaj teeb meem puas thiab ua rau liab;
Ceramide 6 II (Ceramide AP): tuaj yeem txhawb kev loj hlob ntawm stratum corneum hlwb thiab pab tswj kev ruaj ntseg, haum rau cov tawv nqaij tawv thiab du.
Nws raug nquahu kom ua qhov tseem ceeb ntawm cov khoom lag luam uas muaj 2-3 hom ceramides, ua ke nrog cov roj cholesterol thiab fatty acids (cov khoom xyaw no, nrog rau cov ceramides, hu ua "peb loj lipids ntawm stratum corneum"), rau kev kho kom zoo dua.
2. Saib ntawm qhov concentration thiab formula: Zam "kev xav ntxiv."
Ntau cov khoom lag luam ntxiv ceramides rau lawv cov npe khoom, tab sis cov ntsiab lus tsis tshua muaj siab (tsuas yog "kev xav ntxiv"), thiab cov txiaj ntsig tiag tiag yog tsawg. Cov txheej txheem ntawm kev txiav txim yog yooj yim: saib ntawm txoj hauj lwm ntawm ceramides nyob rau hauv cov khoom xyaw - raws li "Cosmetic Ingredient Labeling Standards," cov khoom xyaw tau teev nyob rau hauv kev txiav txim ntawm cov ntsiab lus ntawm siab mus rau qis. Yog tias ceramides tau teev tseg tom qab cov tshuaj tsw qab thiab cov tshuaj khaws cia, nws txhais tau tias cov ntsiab lus yuav tsawg dua 1%, thiab cov nyhuv tsuas yog txwv.
Tsis tas li ntawd, "kev nkag mus rau lub zog" ntawm cov mis kuj tseem ceeb heev: ceramides yog cov lipid molecules loj, thiab tsuas yog ntxiv lawv ua rau nws nyuaj rau lawv nkag mus rau stratum corneum. Nws raug nquahu kom xaiv cov khoom uas muaj kev nkag mus rau - txhim kho cov khoom xyaw (xws li panthenol, hyaluronic acid) lossis cov siv "liposome encapsulation technology," uas tso cai rau cov ceramides tau yooj yim nqus los ntawm daim tawv nqaij thiab siv lawv cov kev kho kom zoo dua . 3. Xav txog hom tawv nqaij sib xws: Zam cov khoom uas yuav ua rau muaj kev phom sij.
Cov tawv nqaij rhiab heev / Cov tawv nqaij qhuav: Ua ntej cov tshuaj pleev xim ceramide thiab pleev xim. Cov no muaj ib qho kev ntxhib los mos, muaj zog moisturizing thiab kho cov khoom, thiab yuav tsum tsis muaj cawv, tshuaj tsw qab, thiab tshuaj tua kab mob (xws li methylisothiazolinone MIT) kom txo qis kev khaus;
Cov tawv nqaij oily/ua ke oily daim tawv nqaij: Xaiv cov ceramide serums thiab toners. Cov no muaj ib qho refreshing, tsis yog -greasy zoo nkauj uas kho cov tawv nqaij barrier yam tsis overburdening ntawm daim tawv nqaij;
Tshaj tawm - txheej txheem tshuaj pleev ib ce / Cov tawv nqaij puas tsuaj loj: Nws raug nquahu kom xaiv cov khoom lag luam nrog "ib qho ceramide + cov qauv yooj yim" (xws li tsuas yog muaj cov ceramide 3 + panthenol)) kom tsis txhob muaj cov khoom xyaw nyuaj uas yuav ua rau tawv nqaij intolerance.
